Climbing Kilimanjaro: Our Journey to the Roof of Africa via the Lemosho Route

 

Introduction: The Mountain of Whiteness

Kilimanjaro—meaning “mountain of whiteness” in Swahili—was once wrapped in glacial ice when early explorers documented it in the late 1800s. Since official measurements began in 1912, roughly 80% of that ice has disappeared.

First climbed in 1889, this 19,341-foot giant sits just 210 miles south of the equator and holds the titles of tallest mountain in Africa and highest free-standing mountain in the world. Each year, about 20,000 climbers reach the summit, yet success is never guaranteed—roughly 10,000 climbers turn back, and 3–10 per year lose their lives, most commonly from altitude sickness.

Seeds of Inspiration

My dream of climbing a high mountain began in the late 1980s after reading Dick Bass’ book The Seven Summits. I devoured every Everest book I could find, but with a price tag of $65,000 and the dangers of the Khumbu Icefall and the “Death Zone,” Everest was out of the question.

Kilimanjaro, however, required no technical climbing skills, was far more affordable, and offered a reasonable chance of success.

In the late 1990s, a colleague at United Airlines returned from vacation announcing he had summited Kilimanjaro. The seed was planted. The dream deepened in 2021 when I met Carol, who had climbed it twice, during a wedding weekend in Montana. Her stories made me think, This is something I want to do… someday.

Training, Preparation, and a New Climbing Partner

Then came Margaret.

We met in July 2022, started hiking together, and by early September I mentioned my interest in climbing Kilimanjaro—possibly as soon as January 2023. Two days later she said, “I’m interested in doing Kilimanjaro.” That was all the motivation I needed.

By mid-September, daily workouts, training plans, airline tickets, and guides were all in place. Suddenly, this was real.

After months of preparation, we flew from Denver to Frankfurt, Addis Ababa, and finally Kilimanjaro Airport on December 6th.

Guides, Regulations & The Lemosho Route

 

Tanzania requires all climbers to hire certified guides for safety and acclimatization. Our two guides—Side (“See Dee”) and Martin—each had 20+ years of experience and over 200 summits.

We chose the scenic Lemosho Route, a 7-day itinerary passing through five climate zones: Cultivated Farmland, Rainforest, Heather & Moorland, Alpine Desert, and Arctic. Camps included Mti Mkubwa, Shira II, Barranco, Karanga, and Barafu.

The Infamous Kilimanjaro Toilets

 

WARNING: The following paragraph contains explicit bathroom material.

The “Tourist Toilets” look pristine from the outside but inside reveal a primitive setup: doors that won’t close without a rock, bare floor holes in various shapes, ant colonies, spiders, and unidentified runoff across the floor. The only mercy was a pair of foot pads to help “aim.” After this daily adventure, a discreet stop behind a rock on the trail felt luxurious.

Life on the Mountain: Porters, Loads, and the Barranco Wall

 

Our team included a cook, Nicolas (who brought us morning tea and wash water), and nine porters. Post-COVID demand was low, so the company added extra porters to provide much-needed income.

Watching them climb the steep Baranco Wall with full loads balanced on their heads was astonishing—true mountain athleticism.

Summit Night: Into the Arctic Zone

 

Day 5 brought us to Barafu Camp (15,400 ft). After an acclimatization hike and early dinner, we slept until 11:00 pm. By midnight, under a nearly full moon, we began the final climb into the Arctic Zone.

For nearly six hours, we ascended the steep switchbacks at a slow, deliberate pace—pole, pole (“slowly, slowly”).

Stella Point: Reaching the Crater Rim

 

We reached Stella Point (18,885 ft) at 5:50 am as sunrise lit the clouds below in orange and pink. It felt like standing above the world.

Final Push to Uhuru Peak

 

A slow 45-minute walk along the crater rim brought us to Uhuru Peak (19,341 ft), the highest point in Africa. In the distance were the final remnants of the shrinking glaciers Hemingway immortalized.

The Summit & The Long Way Down

 

Summit temperatures were between 5–10°F. After quick photos, we began the long descent—nearly 15,000 feet over the next 29 hours. Our guides certified our success that evening, and we received our official summit certificates.

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