Backpacking the Teton Crest Trail & Returning to Yellowstone: Healing in the Mountains
Last rays of sun shine on the Tetons.
It had been just over a year since my family and I last visited Yellowstone National Park. In that time life changed — my wife Julie passed after a long fight with cancer, and I moved from Illinois to Colorado. Returning to northwestern Wyoming — where Julie and I met and where we spent nearly every year of our marriage — felt both painful and necessary.
Starting the Journey: Backpacking the Teton Crest Trail
I planned a three-day solo backpacking trip on the classic Teton Crest Trail through Grand Teton National Park and the Jedediah Smith Wilderness. After a night at Gros Ventre Campground, I left my car at String Lake (trail end) and took a taxi to Teton Village. To save 4,000 vertical feet — and a day — I rode the Jackson Hole tram to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain (10,455 ft) and started hiking from the ridge.
Night One: Death Canyon Shelf
The trail rolled through high-country ridgelines with smoke-hazed horizons from Idaho wildfires. By late afternoon I reached Death Canyon Shelf, where I found a site on the edge of the canyon with sweeping views of the Grand and neighboring peaks — the kind of place Julie always loved.
Day Two: Hurricane Pass & Schoolroom Glacier
A hard climb led to Hurricane Pass and a jaw-dropping panorama of the Tetons. The descent took me past Schoolroom Glacier and into Cascade Canyon. Late in the day the rain began — a prelude to several wet days.
Day Three: Rainy Exit & Return to Yellowstone
The final morning was wet but peaceful. By noon I reached String Lake, hopped in the car, and drove toward Yellowstone. Timing was perfect to watch both Old Faithful and the dramatic Beehive Geyser erupt. After nights of backpacking stove dinners, dinner at Firehole BBQ in West Yellowstone felt like a celebration of solid food and warmth.
The Search for Wildlife: Hayden Valley & Lamar Valley
My goal: find a bear or wolf. Hayden Valley and Lamar Valley are two of Yellowstone’s best wildlife-viewing areas, but rain and fog masked everything at first. Instead I met a massive bison herd — and the National Park Service “Bison Squadron” of pickup trucks that eventually cleared the road.
Flood damage limited access to parts of Lamar Valley (roads were closed past Slough Creek), so wildlife remained elusive. The park’s recent record flood has changed routes and access in ways visitors should check before planning a trip.
KOA Chronicles: The Announcer & Cath
Back at the KOA, I camped next to a pair I call “The Announcer and Cath.” He spoke loudly enough to alert the entire campground to tent condensation tips, hearing-aid charging logistics, and cooking foil-pack dinners. The rain finally provided a natural sound barrier, and sleep came easy that night.
A Reminder at the Entrance Station
The gate attendant at the West Entrance kindly scolded me about speed in the approach road. After learning that multiple bears had recently been killed by speeders, I paid close attention to speed limits — a reminder that park safety signs are there for a reason.
A Final Hike: Phantom Fumarole — Yellowstone Backcountry
On the anniversary of our wedding I hiked alone to Phantom Fumarole, a backcountry thermal basin near the South Entrance. Cold snow dusted the peaks, fog shrouded the forest, and steam rose from vents tucked inside the trees. The 9-mile roundtrip was both otherworldly and perfectly quiet — a fitting tribute to Julie and a peaceful end to the trip.
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Heading Home
The drive back to Colorado was peaceful. As I crossed the Wyoming–Colorado line, a rainbow spread across the sky — a quiet, hopeful ending to a trip full of memory, beauty, and small surprises.
Quick Notes & Practical Tips
- Best time: Late June–September for backpacking the Teton Crest Trail; check snowpack and trail conditions.
- Wildlife viewing: Hayden Valley and Lamar Valley are top choices for Yellowstone wildlife. Bring binoculars and expect variable access after floods.
- Backpacking tips: Consider riding the Jackson Hole tram to save elevation gain. Always pack rain protection and dry-sock options.
- Safety: Obey speed limits in Yellowstone — vehicle collisions with wildlife are deadly. Keep distance from bison and bears.
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